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TANGIER
Museum of
Moroccan Arts
Museum of Antiquities
American
Legation Museum
At the crossroads
of Africa and Europe, the
Mediterranean Sea and Atlantic
Ocean, Tangier has an individual
character.
It is one of the oldest cities in
Morocco. The Phoenicians and
Carthaginians established trading
posts here. The Romans made it a
capital city. It was occupied by the
Arabs and invaded by Vandals and
Visigoths. Before the Spanish, the
Portuguese controlled the town. In
the early part of the 20th century,
Tangier was an international city
whose tax-free status and
cosmopolitan image attracted
European and American artists and
writers.
Although it has lost a little of its
glamorous image, it is still a
bustling city with an air of mystery
surrounding it. For most visitors
that arrive in Morocco by sea, it is
their first point of contact with
the country .
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Tangier is very much a tourist town, serving
everything from Moroccan families on 2 month
holidays to Europeans on one-day African
excursions. The town beach has a great
setting: it makes up a several kilometer
long curve with the white houses of Tangier
as a frame before it ends in the barren
mountains of which there is nothing further
north than sea and the European continent
One of
the main centers of afternoon and early
evening activities in Tangier is along the
beach walk.
Activities here are rather common, people
walk up and down this avenue size street,
looking at people and allowing others to
look at them.
There are several Atlantic beaches west of
Tangier, which all offer a good alternative
to the town beach. The setting of these
beaches can be most attractive, with
mountains on all sides, yet with a wide and
clean beach with all necessary amenities.
The medina of Tangier is a real one: Streets
are narrow, houses in many different styles,
and most of this medina is in good
condition. That is a proof that even people
with some money both live and work here.
The
medina is quite big, and there are many
commercial areas. Most of these serve the
tourist traffic, and it is more difficult to
find any areas where real handcraft is
performed.
Other
areas are solely devoted to living, and
there are plenty of nice houses, painted
doors, decorated gates and rose bushes all
around.
The
gate to the medina near the Great Mosque is
one of the more popular, as it connects
directly to the beach walk. It is also the
easiest entry to the most fascinating parts
of the old parts of Tangier, and you will
immediately find yourself walking in narrow
streets which soon ends up in the Petit
Socco.
But
after sitting there in a coffee shop for
two hours, trying to spot any of these
activities, I had to give up: The youths
behind me had been discussing nothing but
football..
A walk along the Atlantic side of Tangier is
really charming. Only few houses have
managed to put their feet down before the
hill becomes too steep. And by some strange
coincidence history has made this into the
poor people's quarters.
Whenever
I walk around here, I ask myself in such a
European way: Do they know that they live in
the best part of the town. Because, who
could want more than the great view of the
Atlantic and the wide and empty beach?
Morocco was the first power that recognized
the United States of America as an
independent country, and in response an
American embassy
was put up here in Tangier back in 1777.
It
now serves as a museum where there is no
entry fee, but every visitor has to be
guided around by the friendly and
knowledgeable staff. The interior is not
really fantastic or impressive, but always
tasteful. There are also collections of art
of highly differing quality (locally
stationed American artists). You will pass
through several reception rooms as well as
the tiny garden just one storey above the
street.
Socco is the Spanish version of the Arabic
word for market: suuq. But with the Spanish
long gone, the word Socco survives in
Tangier. The Grand Socco is located right
north-east of the medina, and is no longer a
market place.
Today
it is a meeting place and a transportation
junction, principally for taxis. The Grand
Socco is also point where the modern city's
street are forced to continue in the narrow
streets of the old city.
The
Kasbah place fronts the former sultanate
palace, which now has been converted into a
museum. The Kasbah was earlier this century
one of the most attractive areas of Tangier,
but it has lost quite a bit of its old
attractions, and there is a strangely remote
and empty feeling to it.
The
Kasbah place is dominated by its
fortifications which are in very good
condition
The
Kasbah these days is still a nice area,
quiet and in good condition. But the real
wealth is behind often anonymous facades,
and there are many luxurious houses here.
Most of them are fairly old though, because
most rich people of Tangier now puts up
their houses further away from town centre.
The
Dar El Makhzen was built by sultan Moulay
Ismaïl, and is organized around two inner
courtyards. While the palace was not of the
largest a sultan could reside in, this one
is still tastefully finished with wooden
ceilings, arabesques and marble fountains.
The
palace was abandoned in 1912, and was later
turned into a
museum of art and
architecture. Among its exhibits
you will find old examples of craftsmanship,
but it is probably the finds from Volubilis
which is the most interesting for most
visitors.
Place
de France is one of the focal points for
activities in the modern parts of Tangier.
Some of the busiest streets radiates from it
but with all the cafés around here, it is a
place where many stop to have a coffee and
meet friends.
Grand
Cafe de Paris is a landmark in Tangier,
and the place where foreign agents,
expatriates and Moroccan nationalists used
to meet through all the changing periods of
Tangier in this century. Even today it is
one of the city's most popular places, and
very different from many other fashionable
cafés in Morocco you get good coffee here.
Outside, cheap plastic chairs destroy the
ambience, but the interior is almost
unchanged with deep skin chairs.
There
are plenty to watch for anyone interested in
architecture, and next to indigenous
examples there are many nice European style
houses. Details are sometimes blurred from
years of little maintenance
Tangier has many palaces, and many of them
have been well taken care of. Styles and
size vary, but many are of high artistic
class, like this one. It used to belong to
American multimillionaire
Malcolm Forbes.
The house is not very large, but the
property is more impressive. It is open for
visitors because of exhibit of Forbes'
collection of military miniatures.
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